Holy Week Part Two

Well, so much for writing "Holy Week Part 2" soon . . . The past couple weeks have been fairly busy and attention-consuming, plus I've had some internet issues. So, here is the second part of my Holy Week story . . . just later than I expected.

Good Friday
I actually had Good Friday off, so I began the day by sleeping in a little. The service at Christ Church began at 1:00pm, and it was sober and reflective. Scripture readings included Isaiah 52-53, Psalm 22, and John 18-19. Songs included O Sacred Head Now Wounded, How Deep the Father's Love for Us, Once Again, and a beautiful Hebrew song--Seh Ha Elohim. Like many traditional Good Friday services, we were requested to leave in quiet.

After the service, I was torn between how I felt I should spend Good Friday and how I wanted to spend Good Friday. I opted for the latter. Who knows if I will be here next year to experience Good Friday in Jerusalem? I would like to be here again, but I thought I better take advantage of this year when I am here already.

It was important to me to be at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher at 3:00 that afternoon. The Old City was a zoo with all the pilgrims here for Holy Week, and it took a lot of patience and time to work my way down the streets to the courtyard of the church. The courtyard was packed!!! On a normal day, there are hundreds of people working their way through the church, but this afternoon, it was wall to wall people with barely any room to move. Definitely something worth seeing, but the mass of humanity was almost unbelievable!

Crowds of people inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. There was a huge line waiting to go up the stairs to the Greek Orthodox chapel of Calvary . . .


I worked my way inside the doors and found a quiet corner to stand and consider things. The atmosphere in the building was anything but quiet and contemplative. People were everywhere, and priests were everywhere attempting some crowd control. A ladder was set up for people to take pictures. At one point, one man began shouting and trying to clear a path. A group of 20 or so Greek Orthodox (I think) VIPs came through. It is one thing to hear about the crowds that come to Jerusalem to celebrate Holy Week; quite another to experience it. I am grateful for the experience, and despite the crowds and chaos, I was able to spend some quality time in thought and prayer.

While I was out fighting crowds on the streets of Jerusalem, I decided I might as well go to the Western Wall. The Jewish holiday of Passover lasts a week, so Jerusalem was also the center of a large gathering of Jews. The Western Wall plaza was also packed. Jerusalem was a busy and bustling city that week!

Looking down on the Western Wall plaza; Friday, April 2, 2010

The commercial side of things--this was a shop in the Christian Quarter, outside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher that was selling crowns of thorns.


Saturday
I don't know about your experiences, but in my past, the Saturday between Good Friday and Easter is generally a quiet, around-the-house type of day. Not so in Jerusalem. This Saturday is "Holy Fire Day." I knew nothing about this until coming here, but I learned in a hurry!

I was on the breakfast shift that morning, and we quickly learned that local authorities had virtually shut down Jerusalem's Old City. Our cook barely got in Jaffa Gate, and the couple who manage the Guest House spent over an hour going from gate to gate before they were finally able to talk their way in. Virtually nobody was allowed into the city that morning. The contrast from the busy streets the day before was huge--it was almost silent. Upon venturing out of the Christ Church complex, we found police at the end of our street not letting anybody down, and there were police barriers at the entrance to David Street (the main street in from Jaffa Gate, full of shops). The shops were open and the shopkeepers in the doorways, but there was no customers.

Come to find out, the city was shut down in hopes of preventing any trouble at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This is the day of the ritual Holy Fire. Wikipedia has a good summary on exactly what this is; check it out at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holy_Fire. If you can believe it, this ceremony has been going on for at least 900 years!! There were crowds of people outside Jaffa Gate hoping to get in, but no luck. The streets remained locked down all morning and half of the afternoon. It was an extremely quiet day at the Guest House as there was no pedestrian traffic in the city.

Looking down from my bedroom window at the empty Old City streets on Saturday morning. You can also see some of the police who were helping keep the roads closed.
Police barricades at the entrance to one of the main shuks (markets) in Jerusalem.

Crowds of people outside Jaffa Gate. I was so glad I live inside the Old City as there was no way I would have gotten in this day.

Around 2:00pm, the bells of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher began pealing joyfully, signaling the Holy Fire had appeared and was being spread. An hour or so later, numerous parades from the church traveled through the streets. Candles lit from the initial flame were brought through the streets and people stood along the sides with candles of their own to receive the flame. After this, the city was opened back up and the streets quickly filled up. Thankfully, the day proceeded without any major squabble (apparently, a big fuss broke out in the Holy Sepulcher church itself two years ago!).

That night, I attended an Easter Vigil service at Christ Church. I had never been to something like this before, and found it interesting and meaningful. In church tradition, Christ rose from the dead Saturday night; therefore, it is traditional to hold a special service Saturday night anticipating His resurrection. Like earlier services this week, this service was marked by song and Scripture readings. The highlights of the service were Communion and a renewal of baptism vows. I thought that was really a special--baptism is a one-time thing, but it was meaningful to remember why we do it and reaffirm that decision.

Resurrection Sunday
I had asked for Easter Sunday off so I could take advantage of being in Jerusalem for this special day! Despite it being a day off, I began the day earlier than usual. Christ Church had a sunrise service at 6, and I really wanted to be there. This service was a joint effort between the English and Hebrew congregations that gather at Christ Church. It was smaller than I expected it to be, yet so memorable and special. Songs were sung in both Hebrew and English. Easter is the only time I would even consider going to church while it is still dark outside :-), but there is something so special in walking into church while it is still dark and seeing the windows get lighter and lighter as the sun rises. Although it might have been nice to sleep in a little, there was no way I was going to miss this special service! I consider myself so blessed to be able to attend a sunrise service here in Jerusalem on Resurrection Sunday!

The sunrise service concluded around 7:30am, and the normal morning service was not until 9:30am. After a lovely breakfast, I opted to go for a walk and enjoy Easter morning. I walked out of Jerusalem's Old City and into the neighboring community of Yemin Moshe. The best view of Jerusalem (in my opinion) is from the Mount of Olives, but that was not a possibility for me by myself. Yemin Moshe also offers a good view of the Old City; it was my second option and the one that I could actually do. After 15 minutes' walk, I found an overlook to stop and absorb the beauty and peacefulness of the morning.

I then attended the 9:30 service, ate lunch, and took a nap in the afternoon before Bible study that night. It was then an early to bed night as I was back on breakfast shift the next day!


Sights from my walk through Yemin Moshe Easter morning. It was absolutely beautiful, and I hope these pictures convey a sense of the quiet and peacefulness of the morning.




Looking at Jerusalem from the west on Easter morning. I would have preferred the more panoramic view from the Mount of Olives, but this was better than nothing. And, it was breathtaking to see the Old City in the light of the rising sun. I had brought my sansa along with me, and listened to the song "Was it a Morning Like This?" while taking in this view of the Old City.


So, now you have the complete story of my experience of Holy Week here in Jerusalem. I truly consider myself blessed to have this opportunity!

Holy Week Part 1

Passover--March 29, 2010

This past week in Jerusalem has been quite the week. The Jewish holiday of Passover (or Pesach) began at sundown last Monday, and both the Greek Orthodox Easter and Western Protestant Catholic Easter were this past Sunday, April 4th. (These are usually two different Sundays as the western Church follows the Gregorian calendar, and the Eastern Orthodox Church follows the Julian calendar. It's an interesting topic--if you'd like to read more, try http://www.factmonster.com/spot/easter1.html) I was so excited to be here in Jerusalem during this holiday season, and it was even more special to be here this year as it is not often all three holidays fall so close together! It is a unique time to be in Jerusalem, and I hope I can share some of my experiences and the city's atmosphere with you.

The Jewish feast of Pesach began at sunset last Monday; to be specific, at 6:33pm here in Jerusalem. But, none of us volunteers were in Jerusalem--we had a volunteers' day out!! Everyone pitched in that morning to get some cleaning done, breakfast cleaned up, lunch made, and dinner packed. By 1pm, we were on a bus headed out of Jerusalem, down to the Dead Sea.

It was a beautiful day--blue skies and bright sun. It was slightly cool in Jerusalem that morning with a breeze, but quite warm down at the Dead Sea. We set up camp at the Ein Gedi beach and everyone scattered to relax and enjoy the afternoon. Some got into the salty waters of the Dead Sea, quite a few kicked a soccer ball around or threw a frisbee, others of us just sat in the shade and read books. It was such an enjoyable and relaxing afternoon. I read some of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. :-)

As the sun began to set, we gathered around the "dinner table"--plates, cups, forks, and food laid out on picnic blankets on the ground. There were close to 30 of us, and we began by reading the story of the exodus from Egypt in Exodus 12. This story came alive as we read it in the dusk out in the desert. I have never experienced a Seder meal as meaningful as this one! There are simply not words to describe it. We did not do the full Passover Haggadah, but it was still a special meal and time in fellowship with each other.

It was close to two hours from the time we sat down for dinner until we had completely finished. And by this time, the sun had completely set. However, Passover always falls on a night with a full moon, so it was not pitch dark. We had lit candles at the "table" according to tradition, but the constant breeze would not let them remain lit. After dinner, we sang some Hebrew songs, and then everybody lapsed into their own activities.

The bus was not going to return for us until 12:30am (!), so we had lots of time. I ended up sitting with a small group of friends, and we joined in an impromptu praise session. Beno is 15 and quite skilled on the guitar; he can play numerous songs by memory. We sang song after song, praise songs and hymns. It was a beautiful time of praise and worship, and a couple others were adding in harmony. This was probably the highlight of my evening. It was the perfect end to a perfect afternoon/evening!!

The bus came late to take us back to Jerusalem, and we got back to Christ Church around 2am. I didn't waste any time climbing into bed knowing I was on the breakfast shift the next morning, and the alarm would be going off at 5:30!! It as a short night, but I was able to get through my shift the next day better than I expected. :-) I did go to bed around 4 Tuesday afternoon, got up to eat "dinner" (cereal and a banana) at 9, and then went back to bed for the rest of the night. But, the short night and lack of sleep were a very small price to pay for such a special celebration.


The Ein Gedi beach where we spent our afternoon and evening (March 29th). This is looking east toward Jordan, and the waters of the Dead Sea are deceptively inviting.

Later in the afternoon, the haze cleared off a bit, and it was easy to see the Jordan shoreline. Aren't the colors beautiful? It was a lovely afternoon.


Looking down at our "camping" area . . . Four of our company did spend the night here and returned to Jerusalem the next morning, but for the most part, this served simply as our home base. Some used the tents to change in, the umbrellas provided us shade during the afternoon, and we spread out our dinner here.

This is definitely desert terrain . . . the hills are so large and awesome.

Looking west into the desert (and in the direction of Jerusalem) as the sun set . . . it was beautiful!!






While the sun was sinking in the west, a full moon was rising in the east. It was breathtakingly beautiful.




This picture doesn't really do justice to how this looked in real life. The moon reflected off the waters of the Dead Sea, and stars were beginning to shine. We were singing praise song after praise song in amazing harmony under the light of this full moon . . .


Maundy Thursday--April 1, 2010
The next "big event" of the week was Thursday--Maundy Thursday. This is the day churches remember Jesus' Last Supper, his betrayal, and arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane. I worked the breakfast shift Thursday morning, so I was free to attend service that evening. It has been quite a few years since the last time I attended a liturgical Maundy Thursday service, and the opportunity to do so this year caused me to realize how much I've missed it.

The service includes a time of Communion, of course. In many ways, the service here could be duplicated anywhere else, but what came after the formal service is unique to Jerusalem alone. We all gathered in the church's courtyard and then proceeded to walk out the walls of Jerusalem's Old City, down into/across the Kidron Valley, and up the Mount of Olives to Gethsemane. I had seen on the schedule this walk was planned, and there was no way I was going to miss it!! Nowhere else in the world can a person follow in Jesus' footsteps like they can in Jerusalem. It was a quieter, meditational walk as we remembered Jesus Himself taking this walk, knowing what was coming.

It was an interesting combination of remembering His walk from 2,000 years ago and yet still absorbing the atmosphere of Jerusalem on Maundy Thursday evening, 2010. It was pretty noisy and chaotic. There were police everywhere, cars everywhere, buses lined up on the roads, and crowds of people everywhere. At first, I was wishing it was quieter and more similar to what Jesus and His disciples would have experienced. But then I realized this probably was not so different from their evening. It was Passover, and Jerusalem would have been filled and overflowing with Pilgrims. Mass gatherings like this would have made the Romans quite nervous, so their guards would have been out in force. It would have been loud and busy. And on top of that, the disciples were arguing along the way about who was the greatest. So, our experience was actually quite authentic.

It took close to an hour to arrive at Gethsemane, and then we gathered to hear the story of Jesus praying and being betrayed in the garden. After that, we were allowed to spend as much (or as little) time as we wanted in personal thought and prayer. It was another unforgettable evening.

I walked back with three men from the church, as it was late and dark and maybe not the safest to be walking by myself. We walked back through the Old City, on part of the Via Dolorosa. What an experience. It was everything I could have hoped for and more.

We walked to the Russian Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene. The traditional site of Gethsemane is a little lower on the Mount of Olives. It was crazily busy, and up here we had a little more quiet and opportunity to ponder the events we were commemorating.
Gathering together as a group to hear the gospel account of Jesus in Gethsemane and some thoughts on what it means to follow Him and carry our cross . . .
Maybe not the best picture technically, but it comes close to capturing the atmosphere in the semi-darkness under the olive trees . . .

A little closer look at the olive trees . . .

Looking back across the Kidron Valley at Jerusalem (the Temple Mount and Dome of the Rock are easily visible) from the Mount of Olives . . . It was quite easy to imagine and picture the events of this night 2000 years ago . . .


Another look back at Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives--this is slightly to the right of the above picture (looking more northwest than straight west) . . .

This is plenty for now . . . I will add more later about more of my experiences in Jerusalem during Holy Week--check back soon!

Some medical "excitement" . . .

As you can tell, I've had a little bit of "excitement" this month in Israel. Like I mentioned in a previous blog, I spent some time at Yad Vashem on Thursday, March 4th. While this was a special day for me, one incident clouds my memories of that day. I made a stupid "tourist" mistake, tripped on some stairs, and caught myself with my right arm.

While not a dramatic trip/fall (don't worry--none of you missed seeing anything spectacular!!), I am still experiencing complications from that split second reaction. For the first two weeks, I didn't think too much about it and continued to do my assigned shifts. But, this prevented my arm from healing, and I got to the point where I could not finish my shifts on account of the pain. On March 17th, my supervisor insisted I get x-rays to make sure nothing was broken.

That afternoon was a circus! Although my health insurance is with the "normal" company for Christ Church volunteers, we found out the hard way that they have switched their coverage somewhat, and the normal places don't accept the new insurance. To make a long story somewhat shorter, Jane and I spent over 4 hours out and at least half that time on the phone trying to sort this out. Guess I was the guinea pig for figuring out the new health insurance workings; hopefully, it will simplify the process for others. Anyway, after a myriad of phone calls, a doctor approved by the insurance was able to swing by and refer me to the emergency clinic; then we could proceed with x-rays.

As I expected, nothing is broken; it's just the chronic nerve injury/pain flaring up once again and continuing to use that arm was not helping. I was instructed to try resting my right arm in a sling for two weeks and see if that would help. I think this is probably the best course of action, as rest is what has helped in the past. It has been a challenge trying to work one-handed, though.

I have been placed on the breakfast kitchen shift indefinitely as that is where I can contribute the most. The first couple days were mentally exhausting as I had to really think about what I could/couldn't do, rethink how to do some things with only my left hand, and then look for things I could do. After the first week, work got easier as some new habits/patterns had developed.

There are some things I absolutely cannot figure out how to do one-handed . . . opening cans (both with a can opener and the flip-top types), washing dishes, carrying anything and opening a door :-), spreading butter on bread, etc. Gratefully, most of my fellow volunteers have been quite understanding, encouraging, and willing to help. Also, this isn't the first time I've had real difficulties with my right arm, so I have some practice eating and writing left-handed. Those activities aren't so challenging, if you can believe that.

This Thursday is expected to be my first day out of the sling again, so we will see if 2 weeks of rest was the magic answer. I am a little apprehensive but determined to be wise and not do too much too fast.


In order to make two weeks of wearing a sling more fun, many of my friends added their signatures! :-) I have English, Hebrew, Russian, and German on my sling!!




Other than this medical adventure, I don't have much new news to share. Last Monday afternoon, I went for a lovely walk in Yemin Moshe (the oldest neighborhood outside Jerusalem's Old City walls) and discovered a beautiful park. It was so quiet up above the streets of the Old City, and since it is spring here in Israel, the grass was a luscious green and many flowers were blooming. It was a peaceful, restful afternoon, and I am sure I will be back to that shady bench many more times!

The road down into/through Yemin Moshe

Looking back across at the Old City walls--the people help convey size and scale.
An interesting bird in the park . . .

Lastly, a random picture out my second-floor bedroom window of some sort of parade passing by this morning . . .

I am looking forward to an exciting week. Passover (or Pesach in Hebrew) begins tomorrow night. A volunteer outing to the desert by the Dead Sea is planned for us. The plan is to leave around 1pm and return a little after midnight (that should make breakfast shift on Tuesday exciting!). Then, there are special church services planned for Thursday evening (after which will be a meditative walk to Gethsemane), Friday afternoon, Saturday evening, and Sunday morning. I am excited that my work schedule will allow me to go to all of these! I consider myself truly blessed to be able to celebrate Passover, Easter, and all the events of Holy Week here in Jerusalem this year!

Jerusalem's Via Dolorosa and some fun!

The past couple weeks have been busy, intense, and full of variety! Life here in Jerusalem is never boring . . .

Two weeks ago tomorrow, I worked the 7am-3pm cleaning shift, and after I got off, a friend and I went for a walk down the Via Dolorosa here in Jerusalem. I have walked portions of it before, but I had no idea how to get from Christ Church to the beginning of the Via Dolorosa other than starting at the end, tracing it backwards, and then turning around to walk it forwards. That seems somewhat anticlimactic. Also, I wanted to make sure I could make my own way without worrying about safety.

The present layout of Jerusalem was only established in 135 A.D, so the Via Dolorosa is purely tradition and not the actual path Jesus would have walked from His condemnation to His crucifixion. "Via Dolorosa" is Latin for "Way of Suffering" or "Way of Grief." (On a side note, we once named a goat Dolorosa as her twin sister died fairly tramautically, and it simply fit.) Although the Via Dolorosa is traditional and not wholly historical, it has been a path for pilgrims to come remember Jesus' suffering for centuries. It is certainly an experience not to be missed--both for taking time to remember oneself and also to share a very old tradition with millions of other pilgrims.

Although the Via Dolorosa is not Jesus' exact path carrying his cross, it actually fits well with other roads around Jerusalem. Jaffa Road is so named because it is the road that goes to Jaffa; Damascus Road is so named because it is the road that leads to Damascus. In the same way, even though Jesus didn't walk the Via Dolorosa Himself, it is accurately named because of the place to which it leads. The path culminates at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher--the site long held to be the location of Jesus' death and burial (thus the culmination of His suffering). But, there may be other names for this special path as it also leads to the site of Jesus' resurrection!

This was an amazing walk that Monday afternoon. John shared so much information and insights. Some of what he shared I already knew, but quite a bit inspired me to think from different angles or to consider things more deeply. It was great to get my own individual tour and have unlimited, easy access to the tour guide. :-)

We ended up at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. I have been here many times before and know about the main chapels in the building, but there are numerous side chapels and nooks that I have no clue about. It was really helpful to have these explained as well.

My friend and I arrived back at Christ Church about two hours after we started out, and my mind was full and reeling. I had been given so much to think about and the walk was an incredible experience for me spiritually. Everyone at the dinner table noticed that night that my mind was elsewhere! :-)

The next day when I got off my shift, I went back to make sure I could remember how to get to the beginning of the Via Dolorosa and walk the entire path by myself while the memory was still fresh. It is not necessarily a straight-forward path, and one has to remember where to go amongst the crowded and sometimes confusing Old City streets. I promptly got myself lost in the Muslim Quarter, but was able to trace my steps backwards and rediscover my way. I am so glad to now know the Via Dolorosa myself, but I have to say, I got a lot more heckling from the shop keepers when I was by myself than the day before when I was following John. Oh well, it is an integral part of Jerusalem life.


The Via Dolorosa begins in the northeast of Jerusalem's Old City, in the Muslim Quarter, just inside Lions Gate.

A view of the Temple Mount from what was the location of the Roman Antonia Fortress. This is looking south; the rest of Jerusalem's Old City lies to the right.


Looking left at the Mount of Olives from the same place. This is the official beginning of the Via Dolorosa: Station One where tradition says Pilate condemned Jesus to death by crucifixion.



This stained glass window is in the front of one of the two Franciscan chapels commemorating Station Two of the Via Dolorosa. This is the Chapel of Flagellation. In the glass is Pilate washing his hands.


Another stained glass depiction from the front of the Chapel of Flagellation.


The ceiling of the Chapel, remembering the crown of thorns placed on Jesus' head.

Across the courtyard from the Chapel of Flagellation is the Chapel of Condemnation, commemorating Jesus being given His cross to carry. Contrary to popular belief, tradition, and art, He only carried the crossbeam, not the entire cross. This is a paving stone from the Antonia Fortress with a Roman game scratched into it.



Along the Via Dolorosa are 14 stations commemorating different events of Jesus' walk from condemnation under Pilate, to the place of His crucifixion, to the tomb in which He was buried and from which He rose from the dead. On the Jerusalem streets, the stations are marked with large disks like this. This is Station Eight, remembering where Jesus stopped to comfort the daughters of Jerusalem. The stone disk near the bottom of the photo has a Latin cross and an inscription: "Jesus Christ is victorious."




On the lighter side, one of the volunteers was leaving to return home a week ago (March 13th), so there were quite a few farewell gatherings for her. One Wednesday evening (March 10th), some of us walked down to a McDonalds in the German Colony since Sarah loves McDonalds! :-) It was about a half-hour walk and such an enjoyable time with all the others.

This is looking back up the road in the German Colony at about 8:30pm.

Here are (l-r) Joanne (one of my roommates, from New Zealand), Carolina (Columbia), and Michelle (the US!).

Sarah (from France--she's the one who was leaving), Harri (Germany), James (standing up; from Cambridge), and Andreas (Germany).

Harri and Andreas again, and then Anja. Anja is also from Germany; she was originally Sarah's roommate, now she's sharing with Joanne and I! This picture isn't quite how it looks--Anja is not smoking!!

The two Sarahs--Sarah from the US and "French Sarah."

Amanda (I actually took this picture myself!), Tal (Israeli) and Sarah (from the US). And the unmistakeable golden arches behind us. We sat out on a balcony enjoying our ice cream!


The next night, eight of us took two taxis to a bowling alley. I did not bowl (had to think about my right arm), but went along as cheerleader. It was so fun and brought back memories from when I was much younger and my grandma bowled seriously. Our group was a mixture of attempting to bowl seriously and just bowling for the fun of it.

Jonathan works at the reception desk in the evenings, but not this evening!

John (foreground) and Francis-- both from the States!!

"French" Sarah and Carolina
Harri
Andreas the first (there is now another Andreas here, he is [obviously] Andreas the second!)

So, from walking the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem's Old City to eating at McDonalds in Jerusalem's German Colony to bowling in modern Jerusalem, there is much to do here and all of it intensely enjoyable!!