Holy Week Part Two

Well, so much for writing "Holy Week Part 2" soon . . . The past couple weeks have been fairly busy and attention-consuming, plus I've had some internet issues. So, here is the second part of my Holy Week story . . . just later than I expected.

Good Friday
I actually had Good Friday off, so I began the day by sleeping in a little. The service at Christ Church began at 1:00pm, and it was sober and reflective. Scripture readings included Isaiah 52-53, Psalm 22, and John 18-19. Songs included O Sacred Head Now Wounded, How Deep the Father's Love for Us, Once Again, and a beautiful Hebrew song--Seh Ha Elohim. Like many traditional Good Friday services, we were requested to leave in quiet.

After the service, I was torn between how I felt I should spend Good Friday and how I wanted to spend Good Friday. I opted for the latter. Who knows if I will be here next year to experience Good Friday in Jerusalem? I would like to be here again, but I thought I better take advantage of this year when I am here already.

It was important to me to be at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher at 3:00 that afternoon. The Old City was a zoo with all the pilgrims here for Holy Week, and it took a lot of patience and time to work my way down the streets to the courtyard of the church. The courtyard was packed!!! On a normal day, there are hundreds of people working their way through the church, but this afternoon, it was wall to wall people with barely any room to move. Definitely something worth seeing, but the mass of humanity was almost unbelievable!

Crowds of people inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. There was a huge line waiting to go up the stairs to the Greek Orthodox chapel of Calvary . . .


I worked my way inside the doors and found a quiet corner to stand and consider things. The atmosphere in the building was anything but quiet and contemplative. People were everywhere, and priests were everywhere attempting some crowd control. A ladder was set up for people to take pictures. At one point, one man began shouting and trying to clear a path. A group of 20 or so Greek Orthodox (I think) VIPs came through. It is one thing to hear about the crowds that come to Jerusalem to celebrate Holy Week; quite another to experience it. I am grateful for the experience, and despite the crowds and chaos, I was able to spend some quality time in thought and prayer.

While I was out fighting crowds on the streets of Jerusalem, I decided I might as well go to the Western Wall. The Jewish holiday of Passover lasts a week, so Jerusalem was also the center of a large gathering of Jews. The Western Wall plaza was also packed. Jerusalem was a busy and bustling city that week!

Looking down on the Western Wall plaza; Friday, April 2, 2010

The commercial side of things--this was a shop in the Christian Quarter, outside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher that was selling crowns of thorns.


Saturday
I don't know about your experiences, but in my past, the Saturday between Good Friday and Easter is generally a quiet, around-the-house type of day. Not so in Jerusalem. This Saturday is "Holy Fire Day." I knew nothing about this until coming here, but I learned in a hurry!

I was on the breakfast shift that morning, and we quickly learned that local authorities had virtually shut down Jerusalem's Old City. Our cook barely got in Jaffa Gate, and the couple who manage the Guest House spent over an hour going from gate to gate before they were finally able to talk their way in. Virtually nobody was allowed into the city that morning. The contrast from the busy streets the day before was huge--it was almost silent. Upon venturing out of the Christ Church complex, we found police at the end of our street not letting anybody down, and there were police barriers at the entrance to David Street (the main street in from Jaffa Gate, full of shops). The shops were open and the shopkeepers in the doorways, but there was no customers.

Come to find out, the city was shut down in hopes of preventing any trouble at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This is the day of the ritual Holy Fire. Wikipedia has a good summary on exactly what this is; check it out at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holy_Fire. If you can believe it, this ceremony has been going on for at least 900 years!! There were crowds of people outside Jaffa Gate hoping to get in, but no luck. The streets remained locked down all morning and half of the afternoon. It was an extremely quiet day at the Guest House as there was no pedestrian traffic in the city.

Looking down from my bedroom window at the empty Old City streets on Saturday morning. You can also see some of the police who were helping keep the roads closed.
Police barricades at the entrance to one of the main shuks (markets) in Jerusalem.

Crowds of people outside Jaffa Gate. I was so glad I live inside the Old City as there was no way I would have gotten in this day.

Around 2:00pm, the bells of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher began pealing joyfully, signaling the Holy Fire had appeared and was being spread. An hour or so later, numerous parades from the church traveled through the streets. Candles lit from the initial flame were brought through the streets and people stood along the sides with candles of their own to receive the flame. After this, the city was opened back up and the streets quickly filled up. Thankfully, the day proceeded without any major squabble (apparently, a big fuss broke out in the Holy Sepulcher church itself two years ago!).

That night, I attended an Easter Vigil service at Christ Church. I had never been to something like this before, and found it interesting and meaningful. In church tradition, Christ rose from the dead Saturday night; therefore, it is traditional to hold a special service Saturday night anticipating His resurrection. Like earlier services this week, this service was marked by song and Scripture readings. The highlights of the service were Communion and a renewal of baptism vows. I thought that was really a special--baptism is a one-time thing, but it was meaningful to remember why we do it and reaffirm that decision.

Resurrection Sunday
I had asked for Easter Sunday off so I could take advantage of being in Jerusalem for this special day! Despite it being a day off, I began the day earlier than usual. Christ Church had a sunrise service at 6, and I really wanted to be there. This service was a joint effort between the English and Hebrew congregations that gather at Christ Church. It was smaller than I expected it to be, yet so memorable and special. Songs were sung in both Hebrew and English. Easter is the only time I would even consider going to church while it is still dark outside :-), but there is something so special in walking into church while it is still dark and seeing the windows get lighter and lighter as the sun rises. Although it might have been nice to sleep in a little, there was no way I was going to miss this special service! I consider myself so blessed to be able to attend a sunrise service here in Jerusalem on Resurrection Sunday!

The sunrise service concluded around 7:30am, and the normal morning service was not until 9:30am. After a lovely breakfast, I opted to go for a walk and enjoy Easter morning. I walked out of Jerusalem's Old City and into the neighboring community of Yemin Moshe. The best view of Jerusalem (in my opinion) is from the Mount of Olives, but that was not a possibility for me by myself. Yemin Moshe also offers a good view of the Old City; it was my second option and the one that I could actually do. After 15 minutes' walk, I found an overlook to stop and absorb the beauty and peacefulness of the morning.

I then attended the 9:30 service, ate lunch, and took a nap in the afternoon before Bible study that night. It was then an early to bed night as I was back on breakfast shift the next day!


Sights from my walk through Yemin Moshe Easter morning. It was absolutely beautiful, and I hope these pictures convey a sense of the quiet and peacefulness of the morning.




Looking at Jerusalem from the west on Easter morning. I would have preferred the more panoramic view from the Mount of Olives, but this was better than nothing. And, it was breathtaking to see the Old City in the light of the rising sun. I had brought my sansa along with me, and listened to the song "Was it a Morning Like This?" while taking in this view of the Old City.


So, now you have the complete story of my experience of Holy Week here in Jerusalem. I truly consider myself blessed to have this opportunity!

Holy Week Part 1

Passover--March 29, 2010

This past week in Jerusalem has been quite the week. The Jewish holiday of Passover (or Pesach) began at sundown last Monday, and both the Greek Orthodox Easter and Western Protestant Catholic Easter were this past Sunday, April 4th. (These are usually two different Sundays as the western Church follows the Gregorian calendar, and the Eastern Orthodox Church follows the Julian calendar. It's an interesting topic--if you'd like to read more, try http://www.factmonster.com/spot/easter1.html) I was so excited to be here in Jerusalem during this holiday season, and it was even more special to be here this year as it is not often all three holidays fall so close together! It is a unique time to be in Jerusalem, and I hope I can share some of my experiences and the city's atmosphere with you.

The Jewish feast of Pesach began at sunset last Monday; to be specific, at 6:33pm here in Jerusalem. But, none of us volunteers were in Jerusalem--we had a volunteers' day out!! Everyone pitched in that morning to get some cleaning done, breakfast cleaned up, lunch made, and dinner packed. By 1pm, we were on a bus headed out of Jerusalem, down to the Dead Sea.

It was a beautiful day--blue skies and bright sun. It was slightly cool in Jerusalem that morning with a breeze, but quite warm down at the Dead Sea. We set up camp at the Ein Gedi beach and everyone scattered to relax and enjoy the afternoon. Some got into the salty waters of the Dead Sea, quite a few kicked a soccer ball around or threw a frisbee, others of us just sat in the shade and read books. It was such an enjoyable and relaxing afternoon. I read some of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. :-)

As the sun began to set, we gathered around the "dinner table"--plates, cups, forks, and food laid out on picnic blankets on the ground. There were close to 30 of us, and we began by reading the story of the exodus from Egypt in Exodus 12. This story came alive as we read it in the dusk out in the desert. I have never experienced a Seder meal as meaningful as this one! There are simply not words to describe it. We did not do the full Passover Haggadah, but it was still a special meal and time in fellowship with each other.

It was close to two hours from the time we sat down for dinner until we had completely finished. And by this time, the sun had completely set. However, Passover always falls on a night with a full moon, so it was not pitch dark. We had lit candles at the "table" according to tradition, but the constant breeze would not let them remain lit. After dinner, we sang some Hebrew songs, and then everybody lapsed into their own activities.

The bus was not going to return for us until 12:30am (!), so we had lots of time. I ended up sitting with a small group of friends, and we joined in an impromptu praise session. Beno is 15 and quite skilled on the guitar; he can play numerous songs by memory. We sang song after song, praise songs and hymns. It was a beautiful time of praise and worship, and a couple others were adding in harmony. This was probably the highlight of my evening. It was the perfect end to a perfect afternoon/evening!!

The bus came late to take us back to Jerusalem, and we got back to Christ Church around 2am. I didn't waste any time climbing into bed knowing I was on the breakfast shift the next morning, and the alarm would be going off at 5:30!! It as a short night, but I was able to get through my shift the next day better than I expected. :-) I did go to bed around 4 Tuesday afternoon, got up to eat "dinner" (cereal and a banana) at 9, and then went back to bed for the rest of the night. But, the short night and lack of sleep were a very small price to pay for such a special celebration.


The Ein Gedi beach where we spent our afternoon and evening (March 29th). This is looking east toward Jordan, and the waters of the Dead Sea are deceptively inviting.

Later in the afternoon, the haze cleared off a bit, and it was easy to see the Jordan shoreline. Aren't the colors beautiful? It was a lovely afternoon.


Looking down at our "camping" area . . . Four of our company did spend the night here and returned to Jerusalem the next morning, but for the most part, this served simply as our home base. Some used the tents to change in, the umbrellas provided us shade during the afternoon, and we spread out our dinner here.

This is definitely desert terrain . . . the hills are so large and awesome.

Looking west into the desert (and in the direction of Jerusalem) as the sun set . . . it was beautiful!!






While the sun was sinking in the west, a full moon was rising in the east. It was breathtakingly beautiful.




This picture doesn't really do justice to how this looked in real life. The moon reflected off the waters of the Dead Sea, and stars were beginning to shine. We were singing praise song after praise song in amazing harmony under the light of this full moon . . .


Maundy Thursday--April 1, 2010
The next "big event" of the week was Thursday--Maundy Thursday. This is the day churches remember Jesus' Last Supper, his betrayal, and arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane. I worked the breakfast shift Thursday morning, so I was free to attend service that evening. It has been quite a few years since the last time I attended a liturgical Maundy Thursday service, and the opportunity to do so this year caused me to realize how much I've missed it.

The service includes a time of Communion, of course. In many ways, the service here could be duplicated anywhere else, but what came after the formal service is unique to Jerusalem alone. We all gathered in the church's courtyard and then proceeded to walk out the walls of Jerusalem's Old City, down into/across the Kidron Valley, and up the Mount of Olives to Gethsemane. I had seen on the schedule this walk was planned, and there was no way I was going to miss it!! Nowhere else in the world can a person follow in Jesus' footsteps like they can in Jerusalem. It was a quieter, meditational walk as we remembered Jesus Himself taking this walk, knowing what was coming.

It was an interesting combination of remembering His walk from 2,000 years ago and yet still absorbing the atmosphere of Jerusalem on Maundy Thursday evening, 2010. It was pretty noisy and chaotic. There were police everywhere, cars everywhere, buses lined up on the roads, and crowds of people everywhere. At first, I was wishing it was quieter and more similar to what Jesus and His disciples would have experienced. But then I realized this probably was not so different from their evening. It was Passover, and Jerusalem would have been filled and overflowing with Pilgrims. Mass gatherings like this would have made the Romans quite nervous, so their guards would have been out in force. It would have been loud and busy. And on top of that, the disciples were arguing along the way about who was the greatest. So, our experience was actually quite authentic.

It took close to an hour to arrive at Gethsemane, and then we gathered to hear the story of Jesus praying and being betrayed in the garden. After that, we were allowed to spend as much (or as little) time as we wanted in personal thought and prayer. It was another unforgettable evening.

I walked back with three men from the church, as it was late and dark and maybe not the safest to be walking by myself. We walked back through the Old City, on part of the Via Dolorosa. What an experience. It was everything I could have hoped for and more.

We walked to the Russian Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene. The traditional site of Gethsemane is a little lower on the Mount of Olives. It was crazily busy, and up here we had a little more quiet and opportunity to ponder the events we were commemorating.
Gathering together as a group to hear the gospel account of Jesus in Gethsemane and some thoughts on what it means to follow Him and carry our cross . . .
Maybe not the best picture technically, but it comes close to capturing the atmosphere in the semi-darkness under the olive trees . . .

A little closer look at the olive trees . . .

Looking back across the Kidron Valley at Jerusalem (the Temple Mount and Dome of the Rock are easily visible) from the Mount of Olives . . . It was quite easy to imagine and picture the events of this night 2000 years ago . . .


Another look back at Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives--this is slightly to the right of the above picture (looking more northwest than straight west) . . .

This is plenty for now . . . I will add more later about more of my experiences in Jerusalem during Holy Week--check back soon!

Something I've been longing to do . . .

Last Thursday was a day off for me and I took a brave step into an adventure all by myself. I have been wanting to go to Yad Vashem since I got here. The tours in 2004 and 2006 didn't give us enough time to really read and absorb the numerous exhibits in the museum and around the property. Then in 2008, the tour group visited Yad Vashem when I was under doctor's orders to remain in bed for 24 hours. It was one of the top items on my list of things to do/places to visit while I'm here in Israel.

For those of you who may not know, Yad Vashem is a Holocaust museum just outside of Jerusalem. This memorial was established in 1953 and is Israel's official memorial to the Jewish victims of the Holocaust. Roughly six million Jews were killed in the Holocaust, 1.5 million of them were children. "Yad Vashem" is Hebrew for "a hand and a name" and comes from Isaiah 56:5. The main museum and all the other memorials on the property are quite well designed and the reality of the horror of the Holocaust is difficult to absorb and understand. If you're interested in learning more about Yad Vashem, check out the wikipedia entry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yad_Vashem). It is well done and you'll learn a lot!

I hadn't achieved this goal yet because every time I'd arrive at a day off, I'd chicken out and be too intimidated to try and figure out the bus system. I suppose one could walk to Yad Vashem, but it would take a lot of time. My first choice would have been to go with somebody the first time, but that never quite worked either. So, last Thursday I took a deep breath and dove into the adventure.

First step--figuring out how to get on the right bus from Jaffa Gate to Yad Vashem on Mount Herzl. This was actually easy--the bus stops just down from Jaffa Gate, and Bus 20 appeared according to the schedule. The driver was very helpful, telling me where to get off and which direction to walk. It was a 5-10 minute walk from the bus stop down to the grounds of Yad Vashem, and it was a very pleasant walk. Mount Herzl is outside and higher in elevation than Jerusalem proper, the morning was clear and sunny, and it was a pleasantly quiet morning. Pretty soon, I rounded a curve in the road and there was the entrance to Yad Vashem. It was a surreal moment--I couldn't believe I had found my own way there. I walked in the gate a little after 10am with absolutely no time limits, free to spend as much time as I wanted!!


Walking up the road to Yad Vashem . . .


Around a corner, the Yad Vashem grounds came into view. The building to the right is simply the welcome center, and the triangular building behind it is the main museum building with all the historical exhibits.


My first stop was to get a map since there are memorials on the outskirts of Yad Vashem that I have not seen before, then I went to the main museum. This building was completed in 2005 and its design is deeply thought out and intentional. In 2006, I had to keep moving so I would be through in time to get back to the bus, but this Thursday, I took me time and read much more of the exhibits than I had before. The horror of it all is overwhelming, and one wants to weep for the deliberate cruelty the Jewish people have experienced. The exhibits begin with video footage of Jewish life prior to 1933 and then continue with Hitler's rise to power, the early rulings and separation against Jews, Krystallnacht (Night of the Broken Glass) the night of November 9, 1938 in Germany and Austria, the establishment of ghettos, the death camps, the death marches, the end of World War II, the establishment of the state of Israel, and much much more. There are ten exhibit halls in this building, and I spent over 2 hours in there. I think it would be beneficial to go back multiple times because even though I had plenty of time, about halfway through I simply couldn't absorb anymore. I was walking through the exhibits and reading so much material, but my mind simply couldn't process any more of the information. I need to go back and start at the halfway point next time.


The bridge to the entrance of the museum; a sign erected at the beginning of the bridge reads: "Bridge to a vanished world . . ." Inside the door, the first exhibit is a tribute to Jewish life before World War II, "a life and landscape that no longer exists. The Jewish world that was lost."



At the end of the museum, one exits out onto a platform with a beautiful view. It's a complete experience--the videos of Jewish life before 1933, down into the horrors of World War II, and then out to a beautiful panorama of the hills around Jerusalem that lifts one spirits and causes hope to return.




I then explored the outer edges of Yad Vashem. I had never been to the Valley of the Communities before. It was a sobering exhibit to walk around. This monument covers 2 1/2 acres and was carved out of the bedrock. The stone walls towered above me. They are easily 10-15 feet high, and it's like a maze. On the walls are carved the names of over 5,000 Jewish communities that were decimated in the Holocaust. This monument was completely new to me and drove home the enormity of the Holocaust. Most of the community names I didn't recognize, but the sheer number of them is overwhelming.


Overlooking the Valley of the Communities monument.

The entrance to the Valley of the Communities. It's too bad there's no sense of scale in this picture. The rock walls are so tall, I was dwarfed walking through the entrance.

Some of the massive walls in the Valley of the Communities with name after name of destroyed Jewish communities engraved in the stone.



Next, I visited the Garden of the Righteous Among the Nations. This quiet and peaceful garden was established to honor so many non-Jewish people who risked their lives to help Jews. The names are arranged by country and then under alphabetical order, but new names are constantly being added. It was the perfect place to visit after the Valley of the Communities. There, I was just overwhelmed by the depth of human cruelty and tragedy, here a measure of hope and faith were restored. It reminded me of 1 Kings 19 when Elijah wanted to die, but God told him there were 7,000 people in Israel who had not bowed their knee to Baal. Here among the vastness of human cruelty, there were thousands of people who did stand up for the lives of the Jewish people and risked their own lives in doing so.

The Garden of the Righteous Among the Nations.


Two other bigger memorials on the grounds of Yad Vashem worth mentioning. One is the Hall of Remembrance. It is a large, plain basalt structure that is sobering in its simplicity. Inside this building is a black floor with the names of 22 Nazi murder sites hat existed in Europe during World War II. A memorial flame burns continually next to a containing ashes brought to Israel from the extermination camps in Europe. Other than the flame and the light coming in the door, the hall is dark and silent. These places were real, great horrors happened there; the names are etched in history forever . . . Treblinka, Auschwitz, Dachau, Chelmno, etc.


The outside of the Hall of Remembrance (pictures are not allowed inside).


The other memorial at Yad Vashem one must visit is the Children's Memorial. Again, no pictures are allowed inside, but it is quite somber and moving. The path leads downward and suddenly one steps from sunlight into complete darkness. There are dimly lit pictures of Jewish children killed in the Holocaust and dirge-type music is playing in the background. In the second room are three candles surrounded by thousands of mirrors. There is no other light, so it feels like one is among the stars. Here, a looped tape is playing--the names, ages, and countries of the murdered children are read. How can one not weep to hear of children ages 2 or 3, or even 11 and 12 whose lives ended so young?

I had lunch in the Yad Vashem cafeteria (spaghetti and french fries), and then I did a bit of shopping in the gift shop. I am always a sucker for books and found a good one! I also found a couple gifts to send home whenever I get the time and energy to figure out shipping to the States.

After quite a day, I walked back to the bus station for the bus ride back. I'm not quite sure if this was the correct route or not, but I got on the bus I was supposed to and "enjoyed" an hour and a half's trip around some suburbs of Jerusalem. I got on the bus at 3:20pm and got off about a mile away from the Jaffa Gate bus stop as the traffic was getting quite congested and I figured I could walk the rest of the way back faster! :-)

I arrived back at my room with a sense of achievement--I had done it! I had gotten myself somewhere I really wanted to go and back without any major mishaps! It starts giving me a little courage that maybe I can figure out my way around here and get to places on my days off.

This was taken Thursday evening . . . safely back in my room! :-)

So, if any of you ever get to visit Israel and Jerusalem, make sure you get to Yad Vashem--it is well worth your time!! By the way, more of my pictures from Yad Vashem are up on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/47795290@N08/sets/72157623592998590/.

Enjoy!!