Two weeks ago tomorrow, I worked the 7am-3pm cleaning shift, and after I got off, a friend and I went for a walk down the Via Dolorosa here in Jerusalem. I have walked portions of it before, but I had no idea how to get from Christ Church to the beginning of the Via Dolorosa other than starting at the end, tracing it backwards, and then turning around to walk it forwards. That seems somewhat anticlimactic. Also, I wanted to make sure I could make my own way without worrying about safety.
The present layout of Jerusalem was only established in 135 A.D, so the Via Dolorosa is purely tradition and not the actual path Jesus would have walked from His condemnation to His crucifixion. "Via Dolorosa" is Latin for "Way of Suffering" or "Way of Grief." (On a side note, we once named a goat Dolorosa as her twin sister died fairly tramautically, and it simply fit.) Although the Via Dolorosa is traditional and not wholly historical, it has been a path for pilgrims to come remember Jesus' suffering for centuries. It is certainly an experience not to be missed--both for taking time to remember oneself and also to share a very old tradition with millions of other pilgrims.
Although the Via Dolorosa is not Jesus' exact path carrying his cross, it actually fits well with other roads around Jerusalem. Jaffa Road is so named because it is the road that goes to Jaffa; Damascus Road is so named because it is the road that leads to Damascus. In the same way, even though Jesus didn't walk the Via Dolorosa Himself, it is accurately named because of the place to which it leads. The path culminates at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher--the site long held to be the location of Jesus' death and burial (thus the culmination of His suffering). But, there may be other names for this special path as it also leads to the site of Jesus' resurrection!
This was an amazing walk that Monday afternoon. John shared so much information and insights. Some of what he shared I already knew, but quite a bit inspired me to think from different angles or to consider things more deeply. It was great to get my own individual tour and have unlimited, easy access to the tour guide. :-)
We ended up at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. I have been here many times before and know about the main chapels in the building, but there are numerous side chapels and nooks that I have no clue about. It was really helpful to have these explained as well.
My friend and I arrived back at Christ Church about two hours after we started out, and my mind was full and reeling. I had been given so much to think about and the walk was an incredible experience for me spiritually. Everyone at the dinner table noticed that night that my mind was elsewhere! :-)
The next day when I got off my shift, I went back to make sure I could remember how to get to the beginning of the Via Dolorosa and walk the entire path by myself while the memory was still fresh. It is not necessarily a straight-forward path, and one has to remember where to go amongst the crowded and sometimes confusing Old City streets. I promptly got myself lost in the Muslim Quarter, but was able to trace my steps backwards and rediscover my way. I am so glad to now know the Via Dolorosa myself, but I have to say, I got a lot more heckling from the shop keepers when I was by myself than the day before when I was following John. Oh well, it is an integral part of Jerusalem life.
The Via Dolorosa begins in the northeast of Jerusalem's Old City, in the Muslim Quarter, just inside Lions Gate.
A view of the Temple Mount from what was the location of the Roman Antonia Fortress. This is looking south; the rest of Jerusalem's Old City lies to the right.
Looking left at the Mount of Olives from the same place. This is the official beginning of the Via Dolorosa: Station One where tradition says Pilate condemned Jesus to death by crucifixion.
This stained glass window is in the front of one of the two Franciscan chapels commemorating Station Two of the Via Dolorosa. This is the Chapel of Flagellation. In the glass is Pilate washing his hands.
Another stained glass depiction from the front of the Chapel of Flagellation.
The ceiling of the Chapel, remembering the crown of thorns placed on Jesus' head.
Across the courtyard from the Chapel of Flagellation is the Chapel of Condemnation, commemorating Jesus being given His cross to carry. Contrary to popular belief, tradition, and art, He only carried the crossbeam, not the entire cross. This is a paving stone from the Antonia Fortress with a Roman game scratched into it.
Along the Via Dolorosa are 14 stations commemorating different events of Jesus' walk from condemnation under Pilate, to the place of His crucifixion, to the tomb in which He was buried and from which He rose from the dead. On the Jerusalem streets, the stations are marked with large disks like this. This is Station Eight, remembering where Jesus stopped to comfort the daughters of Jerusalem. The stone disk near the bottom of the photo has a Latin cross and an inscription: "Jesus Christ is victorious."
On the lighter side, one of the volunteers was leaving to return home a week ago (March 13th), so there were quite a few farewell gatherings for her. One Wednesday evening (March 10th), some of us walked down to a McDonalds in the German Colony since Sarah loves McDonalds! :-) It was about a half-hour walk and such an enjoyable time with all the others.
This is looking back up the road in the German Colony at about 8:30pm.
Here are (l-r) Joanne (one of my roommates, from New Zealand), Carolina (Columbia), and Michelle (the US!).
Sarah (from France--she's the one who was leaving), Harri (Germany), James (standing up; from Cambridge), and Andreas (Germany).
Harri and Andreas again, and then Anja. Anja is also from Germany; she was originally Sarah's roommate, now she's sharing with Joanne and I! This picture isn't quite how it looks--Anja is not smoking!!
The two Sarahs--Sarah from the US and "French Sarah."
Amanda (I actually took this picture myself!), Tal (Israeli) and Sarah (from the US). And the unmistakeable golden arches behind us. We sat out on a balcony enjoying our ice cream!
The next night, eight of us took two taxis to a bowling alley. I did not bowl (had to think about my right arm), but went along as cheerleader. It was so fun and brought back memories from when I was much younger and my grandma bowled seriously. Our group was a mixture of attempting to bowl seriously and just bowling for the fun of it.
Jonathan works at the reception desk in the evenings, but not this evening!
John (foreground) and Francis-- both from the States!!
"French" Sarah and Carolina
Harri
Andreas the first (there is now another Andreas here, he is [obviously] Andreas the second!)
So, from walking the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem's Old City to eating at McDonalds in Jerusalem's German Colony to bowling in modern Jerusalem, there is much to do here and all of it intensely enjoyable!!
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