Last few days of sight seeing (Part 1)

Beginning of the Via Dolorosa

A few posts ago, I shared with all of you my tour of Jerusalem's Old City via the ramparts. The views from the wall in all four directions are breath taking! If you remember, I had a different itinerary for that April Monday, but the morning's plan fell apart one site after another. Before walking the ramparts, I wandered around the Old City for awhile and thought I'd share with you some unique views . . .

I retraced the path of the Via Dolorosa from Lions Gate on the east through the narrow and winding city streets to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher . . . Literally meaning "way of sorrow," this path follows Jesus' route from His condemnation to His crucifixion; however, it is likely more traditional than historically accurate.

The beginning of the Via Dolorosa in the Muslim Quarter . . . it feels a bit crowded walking this street with one car going by, let alone cars trying to pass each other going opposite directions! The wisest thing to do at this point is step into a doorway and wait for the cars to work their way through.
Also near the beginning of the Via Dolorosa, these are original street paving stones from the Second Temple period (100 B.C. - 100 A.D.). The complete street was discovered about 9 feet below the current street and restored in the early 1980s.
One of the fourteen stations composing the Via Dolorosa--this seventh station is the traditional location of the Gate of Judgment and also the the traditional site of Jesus falling under His cross a second time. This station is still located at a busy intersection of Old City streets.
A look back down one of the streets along the Via Dolorosa--it is quite a climb from the east side of Jerusalem towards the Church of the Holy Sepulcher on the western side of the Old City. For a good read on the Via Dolorosa, go to: http://www.biblewalks.com/Sites/ViaDolorosa.html
Turning down the road leading (eventually) to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in the Christian Quarter, one comes across an interesting sight. Tourist often second guess if they've taken the correct turn as this street appears to lead to the Mosque of Omar.
A bit of history here . . . this Omar was actually the main companion and adviser to Islam's prophet, Muhammad. He became Islam's second ruler after Muhammad's death. After the Rashidun army broke into Jerusalem in 637 A.D., the patriarch of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher would not surrender to anyone except the Caliph Omar. Omar traveled to Jerusalem to accept the surrender, and the patriarch invited him to pray inside the church itself. Omar declined, opting instead to pray in the courtyard. Thus, the Mosque of Omar was built over this site. The initial structure was built around 680 A.D., and the structure that stands today dates back to 1193 A.D. Its 45 foot minaret was added sometime before 1465.

But, once you actually walk down the little street towards the mosque, an alley to the left become visible. This alley only goes a few meters before it dead ends and the entrance to the church's courtyard is on the right. On the left, directly opposite, is this store . . . some things in Jerusalem never change . . . :-)
I wasn't interested in shopping for any souvenirs, so I turned right and down the stairs towards the church's courtyard. This is looking back up those stairs
The courtyard and entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This is quite a massive complex with numerous chapels and altars. This place has been a primary place for Christian pilgrimage since at least the 4th century A.D., and the first building constructed here around 326. As one might guess, the building has gone through many destructions, rebuildings, and restorations in the last 1700 years (and we Americans thought we had old buildings in New England!)
A closer look at the windows above the entrance--this ladder has an interesting and unique story. Well, to be truthful, the reason behind the story is discouraging and downright embarrassing for Protestants. Six religious groups share custody of the church--Greek Orthodox, Armenian, Roman Catholic, Coptic Orthodox, Ethiopian Orthodox, and Syriac Orthodox. Sadly, these groups do not always agree and get along, and there have been numerous arguments over the years (to the point where a Muslim family living nearby has been entrusted with teh keys to the doors since the 12th century). In 1852, the Turks declared a status quo which is still in practice today. Part of this edict refers to religious practices in the compound--whatever arrangements were in place at the time (including worship times, decorations, lighting, etc) cannot be altered and are still in place today. Another part of the status quo edict states that no part of any place designated as common territory can be rearranged without consent from all the communities. Unfortunately, this often leads to neglect of areas that badly need attention and repair. On the lighter side of things, this wooden ladder was apparently placed outside the window more than 150 years ago and was used to haul food up to Armenian monks locked in the church by the Turks. Since the ladder was in place at the time the status quo was established, and since window ledges are considered common territory, the ladder has not been moved (and probably won't be moved).


On that odd note, I will bring this post to an end. The Old City has such a fascinating history and so many intriguing stories. I suspect one could spend years exploring all the streets, alleyways, buildings, and shrines and still not see everything. I am so blessed to have been able to live there for almost a year and a half and hope that I have been able to give you glimpses into this unique corner of the world!