I have a list of numerous places in Jerusalem alone I really want to visit during my time here. Lists are supposed to make things easy, right? Apparently not in this case. One common complication is that my destination(s) of choice is not open on the days I have off. Also, many times I arrive at my day off only to find I have no energy to think about setting the alarm again, going somewhere away, finding the right buses, packing a lunch, dealing with the summer heat, absorbing more information, etc.
I have decided there is a balance--yes, it is often good to get off the Christ Church compound and see new scenery and places; however, sometimes it is just as valuable to take a day completely off (sleep in, avoid any concrete plans, catch up on little things that need doing, and just plain rest). These types of days end up happening more often than days of going somewhere, but Thursday, September 16th, was an exception. One place on my list is the Knesset. They only offer tours on Sundays and Thursdays. I can't remember the last Sunday I had off; Thursdays are usually a day off, but about the time I plan on that, something changes! A couple weeks ago, I had Thursday off and decided early in the week I was going to take advantage of it. By Wednesday night I had completely forgotten about that plan--thank you, Shane, for reminding me!!! :-)
After an early night Wednesday and a good night's sleep, I woke up Thursday morning ready for an adventure. I had looked up the Jerusalem bus routes and schedule online Wednesday and had my bus numbers, times, and routes written down ready to take with me. I packed my backpack for the day, grabbed a pita and some fruit for lunch, and caught the bus outside Jaffa Gate. It was a beautiful morning--clear blue skies, bright sunshine, and not so hot yet.
I needed to change buses since there was no direct route from Jaffa Gate to the Knesset in western Jerusalem. I counted the stops and got off at the stop the website said I could. Oh, back up a minute--bus stops in Jerusalem consist of a bench in a simple, three-sided shelter, and a yellow sign about 12x18 inches with black numbers denoting the numbers of buses which stop there. Upon exiting the bus, I realized there was no number 9 on the sign. There was only a two-minute gap between leaving bus 20 and supposedly boarding bus 9, so I had little time for error. I stepped inside a nearby bookshop to ask (I know, surprisingly I did this, huh?!), and somehow the website had not given me correct information. The owner said bus 9 had stopped at King George Street (not Jaffa Road) for as long as he could remember. I trotted up there but really didn't have a chance of making that bus 9. There were about 4 different bus stops in the one block of King George, but neither of them had a number 9 either. I finally asked the man running a lottery booth, and found out the bus stop for number 9 is actually just around the corner. I found that bench easily enough, was so happy to see 9 on the board, and caught the correct bus the next time it came through. From there, the ride to the Knesset took about 20 minutes and wound through some neighborhoods of Jerusalem I haven't explored much yet. It was a very pleasant ride, and with air conditioning since now it was getting hot!!
I got off the bus near the entrance to the Wohl Rose Garden that lies between the Knesset and Supreme Court and walked back to the Knesset road entrance. There is a roundabout with beautiful flowers and two traditional Jewish symbols at the entrance. In this picture, you can also see the unique Israeli pedestrian crossing sign and the road sign pointing to the Knesset.
I was so excited to actually be there! I am trying to remember (and correct me, Mom and Dad, if I'm wrong), but I don't think I've ever actually been inside any of the US government buildings. I remember touring Washington DC in 1989 but not going inside the Supreme Court building, Congress, or the White House. The Knesset is the Israeli parliament, and the word in Hebrew means "gathering, assembly." It actually comes from the Great Assembly which convened in Jerusalem after the return of the Jewish people to Israel from their exile in Babylon (5th century B.C.). The Knesset has 120 members, the same as the Great Assembly centuries ago.
The fence around the grounds of the Knesset
The Knesset building through the security glass (no cameras were allowed on the other side of the glass)
The English tour was at noon and it was nice to follow the guide with a small number of other people. But, first, our passports were checked and we had to turn in our bags. My backpack was zipped into their black bag which had a number in it. Then, we went through airport-type security. The black bags of our personal belongings were sent through an x-ray machine and then checked in for security purposes. We went through a metal detector, and the only thing we were allowed to bring with us was water (if we wanted). Those who brought water bottles with them were instructed to take a drink in the presence of the security personnel.
This level of security is not surprising considering the importance of the building, but it's almost unexpected because the building itself is unpretentious. There are few decorations, floors and walls are largely unadorned, and limited colors. This picture of the Knesset grounds was taken from across the street--on the extreme left is the security building I went through first. (isn't the sky beautiful?)
A little closer view . . . the courtyard is open and quiet except for the sound of the Israeli flags blowing in the breeze. The outer walls of the Knesset are a combination of bare concrete and reddish Jerusalem stone.
Unfortunately, I was not allowed to take my camera inside the actual building. This square building is actually the original wing of the Knesset, and a new wing was added (completed in 2008). Unlike so many structures in the US, much thought and symbolism was put into designing the new wing. It is not visible from the road, symbolizing the Jewish people's desire to build on their history, not overshadow it. In that wing are many committee rooms. It is spacious and bright.
The first sitting of the modern Knesset took place in Jerusalem's Jewish Agency building (January 1949). From March to December of 1949, the gatherings took place in different Tel Aviv buildings. This Knesset building in Givat Ram, Jerusalem was completed and inaugurated on August 30, 1966. The Knesset held its first sitting in Plenary Hall the following day. The finances for the building were actually a gift to the State of Israel from James A. de Rothschild. One interesting point--this building was built and plenary discussions held here while the Old City of Jerusalem was still part of Jordan (this was prior to the Six-Day war of 1967). Also, the land the Knesset is built on is leased from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem.
The Knesset members sit on the lowest level of the chamber. In the center, at a horseshoe-shaped table, sits the Prime Minister and other members of the Government. In the front sits the Speaker, the Secretary General, and a parliamentary reporter. The chamber also has an area for reporters, a gallery for important guests, and a gallery behind bulletproof and soundproof glass for the public. Anybody with a valid ID can sit in on any Knesset sessions. The wall behind the podium is quite plain. A picture of Theodore Herzl hangs on the viewer's left side, and there is a slight design to the stonework, but nothing more. It is amazingly simple, and hard to believe so many important discussions take place here.
The Knesset is the legislative branch of the Israeli government. Its responsibilities include enacting laws, electing the president and prime minister of the country, and supervising the work of the government. The body also has the power to remove the President of the State as well as dissolve itself and call for new elections. Our tour guide gave us a brief overview of the Israeli governmental system, but to be honest, I need to do a lot more reading/studying before I will have a complete grasp on it. If you want to have a go, visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knesset.
Each Knesset session is known by its number and lasts for a maximum of four years. Lately, the Knesset has been dissolving and re-electing before the 4-year terms are up. The current Knesset session (elected in February 2009) is the Eighteenth Knesset. I can't remember the exact numbers, but there are women in the Knesset as well as some non-Jewish members.
Also in the original Knesset building is Chagall State Hall. It is named after Mark Chagall, a Jewish artist born in 1887. He designed the three large tapestries that serve as a backdrop for the stage, one large wall mosaic, and 12 floor mosaics. Since I didn't have my camera, I couldn't take any pictures, but they are amazing. The tapestries are so beautiful, and each little detail is thought out. For more details on his designs, visit: http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Politics/Chagall.html. To see pictures of his three tapestries, visit http://www.all-art.org/art_20th_century/chagall2.html. You have to scroll down a bit, but trust me, it's worth it!! Chagall Hall is the site of many state ceremonies as well as welcoming ceremonies for visiting world dignitaries.
The tour took around an hour and was well worth my time. (It was well worth the money as well :-)--there was no charge!) There wasn't much to see, but what there was to see was worth seeing.
Back outside, across the street from the Knesset building is a well-known menorah.
A menorah is a seven-branched candelabrum which was first used in the Tabernacle built by the Israelites while they were in the wilderness, and a golden menorah also stood in the Jewish Temple. The menorah has been a symbol of Judaism since ancient times, and it is now the symbol of the modern State of Israel (even more than the famous Star of David). This menorah is made of bronze and was a gift to Israel from the UK Parliament in 1956.
Built by a British-Jewish sculptor, the menorah took 6 years to complete. It is crafted in great detail, with more than 30 engravings of important Judaic events, idioms, characters, and terms. I would have loved to spend more time studying all the little details! Here are a couple of the closer-up pictures I took . . .
This is Shema Israel (in English, Hear Israel), the beginning of the Jewish Shema from Deuteronomy 6:4-5.
This photo may give you a sense of size--the menorah is around 16 feet tall.
After the Knesset tour and time looking at the Menorah, I had just a little bit of time to wander in the neighboring Wohl Rose Garden before catching a bus down to spend an afternoon with friends. September is probably not the height of the rose season, but there were some pretty flowers to see.
I enjoyed a little picnic lunch in this beautiful spot!
After a bit of time in the rose garden, it was time to catch the bus back. Unfortunately, I couldn't simply do the same bus routes in reverse because I wasn't coming back home. I was going down to Talpiyot (a neighborhood in southern Jerusalem). I almost missed the bus from the Knesset! Just in case any of you find yourselves in Jerusalem working the bus system, the buses are usually quite prompt and don't hang around. They also seldom stop for anybody running to catch their bus. Honestly! I've seen people come dashing up 15 seconds late and knock on the bus doors just as the driver lets off the brakes, and they don't reopen the doors. Luckily I got there just in time; the doors were only just starting to shut!
Back at the change-bus point, I once again took a bit to figure out where I could pick up the next bus I needed. (I am almost jealous of the volunteers who come here from Europe. They are so accustomed to bus systems, aren't intimidated by the buses at all, and pick up the technique quickly. We Americans who come from small towns with no bus systems do not have much experience with this, and it seems a little daunting!) I missed the first option as a two-minute "layover" did not give me enough time to figure it out. I decided to stop for a cold drink as it was now the middle of the afternoon and very warm.
I stopped at this little fresh juice stand at the top of Ben Yehudah.
The menu offered so many choices; I had a hard choice between playing it safe or trying something completely new and uncommon to Colorado.
In the end, I chose to play it safe and got a lemonade with mint. (Come on, how many of you are truly surprised that I played it safe???) Next time, I'll take a risk. :-)
I eventually figured out where to pick up Bus 72 down to Talpiyot, got on, and enjoyed the air conditioned ride. I wasn't sure exactly where it stopped and didn't want to get off past my destination, so I got off at a stop before my friends' house. Come to find out, I way over-anticipated, walked the last 15 minutes to their house, and then discovered the bus actually stops right at their corner!!
My friends' neighborhood--doesn't it look so quiet and peaceful? As far as I know, it pretty much is as quiet and peaceful as it looks; I would love to live there!
Oh well, I made it everywhere I wanted to go that day, didn't miss any time schedules, and really enjoyed my day out and about! And, it was a good exercise in flexibility and adjusting for a perfectionistic planner like myself. :-)
The sukkah inside Christ Church
Jaffa Road was packed!!
More sukkot in western Jerusalem
Dusk in Jerusalem (though the colors aren't quite so breathtaking in the photograph as in real life)
(the giant sukkah in Hurva Square)
(an "open air" sukkah in Hurva Square)
And what is a walk through the Jewish Quarter without a visit to the Western Wall? Here is a gigantic sukkah in the Western Wall plaza!
It's a good thing my ultimate goal was not the wall itself as I would not have gotten anywhere close to it--the plaza was packed!! It was humming with celebration and certainly something to experience.
